Hugs for Your Jugs

The "omega alteration" is an alteration that aims to fit a bra cup into a smaller wire by shaving length off the wireline seam (distributed across the cup pattern pieces).  The standard omega adjustment This is what it looks like, and you may know this is something I have written about before, although I always felt that what I wrote was incomplete. Essentially , this alteration can cause a bunch of cup shaping issues  in its users and I have tried for a while to find a solution that works for different styles of bra. I believe I have found this method so I'm sharing it with you all. This alteration also works in reverse for those who need larger wires than typical. 

I'm here with an actual tutorial for once so get your drafting stationery ready! It is my personal belief that a lot of us struggling bra makers should be increasing the spring on our bras, especially in larger wire sizes. Spring is, in short, the distance between the wire at rest and the cradle the wire fits into.    An extended edition of this post is available on  my ko-fi , which you can read with a one-time donation of $3/£2. You can subscribe to continue supporting my work and receive early access to/extended versions of my posts.   Using a spring-conscious approach has been the final puzzle piece in fitting bra bands onto myself and clients with high rates of success. What I mean by spring conscious is the understanding that each wire size/type/firmness needs a different amount of spring, as well as the understanding that certain cradle and band alterations also impact this amount. As designers often use a set amount of spring for each wire, their bands may be relatively s