Showing posts from March, 2022

Why the Omega Alteration keeps messing up your armpit (and how to fix it)

There are a few different adjustments you can make when altering a pattern to fit a smaller frame - Emerald Erin has a great rundown here . One that I have mentioned before on this blog is called the omega adjustment.  Now, a bugbear of mine is that while this is called the omega adjustment, doing this alteration doesn't mean your breasts are omega shaped . You can need a smaller wire than intended for your size range without being omega shaped, and this is known as being projected - if you need a truly omega shaped bra, additional alterations will be required. I just thought I'd mention this here to avoid confusion, but the link above goes into this in more detail. You can read an extended version of this post and many of my other bra making blog posts for just £2 on my Ko-fi , and make a monthly pledge to continue supporting my blog if you want! Theory Behind the Omega Alteration Let's stop thinking about bra cups for a minute and instead start thinking about their ge

2 Ways to Widen the Lower Gore - Wire Spring vs Wire Rotation

Widening the lower gore (aka the lower bridge) is a common alteration for those with a splayed root shape , but the techniques in this post can also be used to turn a regular wire into a plunge wire. Here's two ways to widen the lower gore, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Wire Rotation The wire rotation method is a simple alteration, made by literally adding a triangle to the lower gore to widen it. This is the alteration most people talk about when recommending widening the lower gore, such as in this post by Cloth Habit . The alteration is very easy, you just add as much width as you want (half of the total width increase of course) and make sure the top and bottom off the gore are sitting at 90 degrees to your new centre gore line, and off you go.  The standard method of widening the gore by wire rotation You can also test out this alteration on a toile/fitting band by slicing it up the middle and patching it with a triangular piece of fabric.  You can see that