Hugs for Your Jugs

Back when I was 14 and just learning about how bras should really fit, I measured myself at home by /r/ABraThatFits ' guide at a 26FF, then was fitted by a friendly in-store fitter into a 28G/26GG . I remember thinking during the fitting that the Cleo Maddie fit very well, and left the store happy in my Bravissimo Satine - having just come from a 32D!  But then as the weeks progressed, I became confused. The bras I was trying in 28G - and even 28FF - were... too big. For my next bra, I settled in a Freya Piper Plunge Balcony in 28FF, my breast tissue sinking to the bottom, convinced I was very full on bottom because why else would these bras have so much space at the top? I had unknowingly become a victim of "sizing up for depth", and it took me years to actually figure out what had happened - and that I actually have tall roots that make me functionally full on top.

If you've ever looked up bra fitting information online, you'll be presented with a page of google results by lingerie companies and retailers, most of which give you the same (basic) advice: "if your band rides up, it's too large!" "the gore should tack" "if the cups are visibly too small, they're too small" "if the cups are visibly too big, they're too big" Thanks a bunch, Boux Avenue

I've realised that while there are titbits (pun intended) of information about how rib Cages can affect bra fit floating around, it's never been collated into one easy to access article. So I've tried to do that: most of the information in this post is credited to other hardworking bloggers, please check out the credits at the end to support their work! Also big thanks to my sister for the lovely diagrams. 1. Rib Cage Shapes (horizontally) There are two basic types of rib cross-sections to consider in relation to bra fitting, disregarding the sternum (we'll get onto the breastbone later): Flat vs Barrel Shaped Ribs   Flat ribs (left) - the most common rib cage shape   Barrel shaped ribs (right) - more rounded than the average rib cage shape Most bras are designed to fit best on flat ribs.

We all know that it's important to scoop all tissue  from the outside of the bra *into* the cups, as well as positioning the wires correctly , but recently I have been thinking about an extension of the manoeuvre: The Outwards Scoop You may be thinking that this is just a way to make a too small cup look like it fits correctly , but I promise you it's more than that. What is the purpose of the scoop and swoop? To make sure that all tissue that was outside the wires is now inside the wires - of course, provided that the bra isn't too narrow overall. For those with soft tissue (and particuarly those with pendulous breasts and loose skin as well), or just a very projected shape simply scooping the traditional way can force tissue into the gore space *past* the root of your breast. This causes tissue to sit under the gore, either pushing it away or having the gore sit on breast tissue - not ideal!

Note: This blog post has images with text on them, so I've uploaded a text-only version here that should be compatible with text to speech readers. Angles Make sure you're taking these pictures with neutral posture, as that's how fit is judged! If there is a difference in fit on each breast, be sure to take photos of each side. 1. The Diagonal Shot This is my new CHP Koktajl in case you were wondering

Since people loved my 11 Signs You're Wearing a Boob Hat  post, I have decided to write one about the opposite syndrome: The Parachute Bra. Parachute bras are worn by people who have realised that the "plus 4" method of measuring people is a terrible system, but they go too far the other way - wearing too small bands and too large cups to compensate. I call them parachute bras because the cups billow in the wind, and the band is tight around you like a harness. Some people call this "reverse letterphobia" but I've chosen a different name because I feel that reverse letterphobia is a little bit.. judgey (and my name is catchier ngl). Why do people do this? They may be very afraid of the too loose bands they were wearing in the past, they may want to be a smaller band and larger cup than they are because of a lack of body confidence, or they may just not quite know how a bra should fit. They may also have a projected shape and size up to get the depth the...