2 Ways to Widen the Lower Gore - Wire Spring vs Wire Rotation
Widening the lower gore (aka the lower bridge) is a common alteration for those with a splayed root shape , but the techniques in this post can also be used to turn a regular wire into a plunge wire. Here's two ways to widen the lower gore, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Wire Rotation The wire rotation method is a simple alteration, made by literally adding a triangle to the lower gore to widen it. This is the alteration most people talk about when recommending widening the lower gore, such as in this post by Cloth Habit . The alteration is very easy, you just add as much width as you want (half of the total width increase of course) and make sure the top and bottom off the gore are sitting at 90 degrees to your new centre gore line, and off you go. The standard method of widening the gore by wire rotation You can also test out this alteration on a toile/fitting band by slicing it up the middle and patching it with a triangular piece of fabric. You can see...